I can’t help feeling a little nostalgic as I write this. Just a few weeks ago, I was wrapped in a world that felt like another era. Well, not quite — but I could easily imagine what life must have been like inside Ireland’s grandest hotel, Ballyfin Demesne. What I loved most about my stay wasn’t just the magnificent interiors or impeccable service, but how every detail encouraged you to immerse yourself in the history of the house. It was more than a brief escape — it was a journey back to the 1800s, a step into another world entirely. The perfect antidote to the rush of modern life.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The elegant hallway
From the moment you check in, you feel like part of the furniture — in the best possible way. We were greeted with two glasses of Billecart-Salmon (my favourite champagne!) and settled by the roaring fire. Since all our details had already been taken care of when we booked, there was no paperwork to worry about. We ordered a light lunch while our complimentary champagne was generously refilled, and simply took it all in.
The picturesque outer building
We were then given a brief tour of the estate, where we discovered that the building had once served as a boarding school and was home to monks, who acted as the teachers at the time. It has since been rebuilt and restored from the ground up — and what a magnificent transformation it is! The grounds are just as stunning, with some rooms overlooking the lake.
THE MOUNTRATH ROOM
The Mountrath Room
Toile curtains in the bedroom
We stayed in the Mountrath Room, named after the Earls of Mountrath and the nearby town located just six kilometres from Ballyfin. The room boasted breathtaking views through its magnificent windows. From the cast-iron fireplace to a beautiful painting by Richard Rothwell, no detail had been overlooked. The elegant bed canopy, textured wallpaper, and toile-style drapes framing the tall windows made us feel as though we were living in a fairy tale. Despite its stately elegance and antique details, the room felt remarkably relaxed and welcoming.
Patterned Wallpaper And 1920 Chaise Lounge
It was such a treat to see a few chocolates waiting for us on the table when we arrived, and even more pleased to discover that the minibar—stocked with plenty of snacks—was completely complimentary. The staff couldn’t do enough for us, and the whole experience felt more like staying at a friend’s country estate than at a hotel.
View From The Bathroom
And of course, the bathroom had its own chandelier — with a view to match! The Diptyque toiletries and marble shower enclosure were lovely finishing touches.
THE GOLD ROOM
The Gold Room
This gold room was one of my favourite spaces in the estate — so elegant and opulent, with vintage art, marble tables, and a chandelier that once belonged to Napoleon’s sister (yes, you heard that right!). Because of the light-coloured Italian carpet, none of the fireplaces are in use here — and honestly, who can blame them? I’d do the same. There’s something wonderfully delicate and intimate about this room. I love the soft pastels, the gilded accents, the dramatic artwork, and that absolutely heavenly wallpaper.
THE ESTATE LIBRARY
The Library
Now, onto a more eclectic space — the library, which is every bookworm’s dream. And even if you’re not into books, there’s plenty to enjoy here: beautiful interiors, fascinating historical ornaments, and an incredible amount of natural light streaming through the windows. We had an evening pre-drink by the fire, and it felt truly special. Sitting in the middle of the library, you can almost feel like you’ve stepped back in time. There’s gentle music drifting in from the saloon, but you hardly notice it as you take in all the history, the scent of old books, and the endless visual details around you.
Oriental-style patterned silk cushion, adding colour and elegance to the room
A few interesting design details caught my eye in this room. The on-trend oriental patterns, the fringed sofas and chairs, and a pouffe upholstered in a vintage rug. And, I loved how they repurposed an old mahogany wine cooler as a planter — such a clever touch! It’s details like this that make me adore visiting hotels for interior inspiration. See my post on 9 things I’ve learned from hotel interior design!
Pouffe upholstered in vintage carpet
Using an old mahogany wine cooler as a planter
THE SALOON
The Salon, perfect for relaxing or socialising
The saloon was the first room we made ourselves comfortable in as soon as we arrived. It’s filled with natural light, complete with a grand piano, an open fire, and an impeccable atmosphere. The sofas were the plushest I’ve ever sat on, paired perfectly with a pouffe — ideal for a quick drink or a light bite. I had my seasonal butternut squash soup here, and it was absolutely divine. The estate also serves apple juice made from its very own trees, which is definitely worth trying. I was also amazed by how beautifully they’ve restored the original oak parquet flooring. It’s truly spectacular!
THE STAIRCASE
A French-style Chandelier
Family Potrtraits of the Original Coote Family
The staircase is absolutely breathtaking, adorned with a striking chandelier and portraits of the original family who once called the estate home. I never tired of walking up and down it—in fact, it quickly became my favorite pastime during my stay.
UNTIL NEXT TIME
There’s no doubt that Ballyfin is one of the most magical places I’ve ever visited—and trust me, I’ve stayed in my fair share of fancy country hotels. In some ways, it actually felt less like a hotel and more like stepping into another world. Neither my husband nor I had experienced anything quite like it before. It’s very old-worldly, so if you’re expecting modern, sleek rooms, it might not be for you—but I’m guessing, judging by the prices, that anyone booking here has already done their research.
It’s a special place where everyone knows who you are. I went horse riding after lunch, and all the staff remembered to ask how it went. Our dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant was equally impressive. From the stunning staircase to the peaceful rooms, it truly feels like stepping into a world of pure fantasy. And, I can’t wait to return and experience it all over again.
